27 November 2010

L'Abbaye Fontevraud and American Thanksgiving in France

The Church

The Church

 Last Sunday Michele and I took a road trip to L'Abbaye Fontevraud, a monastery and abbey constructed during the 12th century about 45 minutes away from Tours. At one point in the Middle Ages it was a combined monastery, housing both men and women. As you could imagine, at the time, the abbot in charge received a lot of criticism for this blended monastic community. Near the end of the French Revolution, Napoleon transformed the monastery into a prison which remained until 1963. There is a large church, cloister, chapter meeting rooms, dormitories, a refectory, and a modern hotel/restaurant in the building which once housed lepers.

I'd been wanting to visit a medieval monastery for the longest time because of my interest in religious life during the Middle Ages. Michele and I easily spent 2 hours at the abbey, making sure not to miss anything and following along with the personal audio guides. When I visit these old establishments, like the Gothic cathedrals and medieval castles, it becomes so easy for me to imagine living during the Middle Ages. The combination of the cold and rain and the few number of tourists at the abbey made it even easier to imagine a medieval life there.

Michele and I also stopped at a little cafe nearby, owned and operated by a cute English woman. The cafe was overstuffed with gaudy antiques and trinkets from England, but it still had charm. On the way home we stopped at Les Candes Saint Martin, an old church where the bishop of Tours, St Martin, died and remains buried today. We arrived there late in the afternoon and with the cloud cover and dusk approaching, it was very dark inside, only a few candles lit to illuminate the beautiful interior.

It was really wonderful to spend the day with Michele. She is such a wonderful, beautiful person and we get along so well. Even though her daughter is my age, I don't seem to notice the age difference between us because we have such a good time together. We've gotten in the habit of mixing English and French, switching back and forth, not noticing when we transition from one language to the other.

Panoramic View
The Church


Interior Courtyard


Monday and Tuesday at school I didn't work with two of my usual classes, the older 3eme classes, so that I could spend time with the youngest 6eme class. I really enjoyed working with the younger kids (we talked about Halloween) because they are so sweet and fun. I saw many of my 3eme students at school who said hello to me in the hallways and asking when I would be seeing them again. 

Thursday and Friday lessons went alright, but I had one difficult class, and unfortunately I had to send two students out of the room. I felt badly about having to do so, but the kids were interfering with the other students' opportunities to learn and participate. 

Thursday morning we woke up to a "White Thanksgiving". Snow! (Although, it melted as soon as it hit the ground.) Thursday evening I celebrated Thanksgiving dinner at Ryan's house.
Thanksgiving at Ryan's

Everyone prepared a dish to bring and we ended up having quite the feast: roasted turkey and potatoes, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, spinach casserole, corn, stuffing, cranberry sauce, macaroni and cheese, bread, salad, and vin chaud (warm wine). We were a mixture of Americans, Australians, English, and French. It was a really lovely get-together which I was grateful for since it was my first Thanksgiving away from home. When I got back to my apartment in the evening, I phoned home and got to speak to all of my family gathered at my house. In the end, it was a bitter-sweet Thanksgiving, but one I was happy to experience in France.

This weekend, the city of Tours has turned on the Christmas lights all over the city, including the lights on the giant tree outside the Hotel de Ville. There is a Christmas market lining the boulevard with log cabin store facades and a merry-go-round, as well as another large Christmas tree and ferris wheel by the river. In short, it's beginning to look a lot like Christmas :)

3 comments:

  1. Ooh! I've been to that abbey... I think. I'm horrible with names, but it sounds familiar and the pictures look like ones I took.

    Sounds like you had a yummy Thanksgiving! It's rough being away from home for it, and it doesn't get much easier. I haven't had a Thanksgiving in the US since 2005! Ridiculous!

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  2. Hey Jenna,

    Your pics are invariably impeccable and translate the incredible beauty that you are beholding in the landscape and architecture of France. Thanks for sharing that! Also I am glad that Thanksgiving went so well, and that you got to get in touch with your fam. As it turned out we had a simple Thanksgiving with just Daniel and I, some chicken, mashed and sweet potatoes, corn and cranberries. There was a lot of food though so we were not complaining, even though it was a bit hard to be away from home during this time.

    Nonetheless, keep up the hard work with your classes! It will all pay off at some point soon. I applaud your tossing a couple of kids from class. Even though hard, it was most likely what needed to be done, as you are a person of great patience and would not do such a thing on a whim.

    Also, as to your fascination with medieval European religious history, it turns out that a friend of mine living in Wurtzburg, Germany, is a professor in that field, and I bet he would love to have us if we made our way through at some point.

    Anyway, hope you are well and look forward to skyping again soon!

    Cheers,
    Tim

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  3. Jenna,
    I'm so happy to hear your report about the abbeys and Thanksgiving in France. And, the French apparently are catering to the Americans by putting out their Christmas decorations after our celebration. Ha!
    By the way, I don't know if you've talke to Christophe about this, but he has written two books on medieval history of the region, focusing on charterhouses, churches, etc.--one on the La Chartreuse du Liget and the other on the history of the little village where his mother lives, Genillé. If you get time and the the urge, you might call him. I'm sure he'd be glad to tell you about his research or maybe show you the places. By the way, he's really missing his former students at Jean-Philippe Rameau.

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